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  #1  
Old 02-10-2013, 09:28 PM
MikeVJ MikeVJ is offline
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Default Trolling with ??? pound test

Hey all,

I'm going to run planer boards for the first time this year. I'm about to spool two new trolling reels and I was wondering what you all recommend. I was thinking about buying 50 lb pink Ande (mono).

Is that too much? Not enough?
Does anyone troll with braid?

I have already picked up a dozen scotty clips but was also considering using shower curtain rings & rubber bands. I don't think the clips will hold braid very well (hence the idea to buy more mono). But then again, braid might cut right through the rubber bands and ensure a good release (knock down) on a solid bite.

I appreciate any advice. So, what trolling setup do you use?

Thanks,

Mike
The Miss Adventure
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2013, 11:04 AM
bhl bhl is offline
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Mike,
I use 40# Ande mono on my planer board rods. Never had a problem. Clips or rubber bands both work.I like mono because it rides higher in the water than braid.
I do use braid on some of my deep boat rods.
I have run braid on board rods and the clips worked OK except for when it gets really rough they get knocked out. Braid seems to cut rubber bands.

bhl
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2013, 05:05 PM
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B-Faithful B-Faithful is offline
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I use 30 or 40lb mono on the boards because it is easy on the hands and safer for kids. I run all 330gti's so the max drag they put out is only about 16lbs and most monos are strength-tested well beyond their designation these days. I currently have 40lb on there but have run 30lb for years.

I use rubber bands. #32 for solos and lighter tandems or #64 for heavier lures or in very rough waters work best.

My deep boat rods are all top shotted with 80# braid. I would go lighter but I fish with kids and fear them getting cut with lighter line.

My leaders are all 60lb mono on my trolling gear. It ties nice and easily handled.
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Last edited by B-Faithful; 02-11-2013 at 05:07 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-08-2013, 11:22 AM
Seahunter Seahunter is offline
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I have #65 and #80 braid on all my rods. Don’t need the strength, I want the diameter. The larger diameter is easier to handle, doesn’t dig into the spool and it doesn’t give problems with the old style roller guides.

In the Spring, I’ll top shot some of them with mono to keep the baits a little higher in the water column but have found that shortening up my drops has a similar affect.

I don’t like Ande line. The stuff is too stiff for my liking. I use #60 and #80 Sufix Superior for leaders and running line.

People say that have problems with braid and clips but I’ve never had any problems with that combination. Probably because I use the heavier braids. The advantaged of the clip over rubber is the ability to adjust the tension. I can lighten up the release pressure on clam days and torque them down on the days that it is rough.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2013, 08:53 PM
Chessie27 Chessie27 is offline
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I run boards with all Hi-Vis 30# Suffix Superior. The bright yellow really makes it a lot easier to see where everything is. I also use Scotty clips instead of rubber bands as it seemed that if the rubber bands weren't cinched properly, while you are letting out line to send the curtain ring out, the fishing line would slip through the rubber band. Now instead of being out 8 bars, you were out closer to 10 or 12; tangles will surely follow!
This year I did do a couple reels up with hi vis yellow 60 or 80# braid (can't recall which) for boat roads. Plan to run 3 deep with braid and 2 with mono off the boat, and 14 or maybe 16 off the boards. Should be interesting!

Good luck!! Remember, with running boards, everything requires a lot more thought, especially turning!!
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2014, 09:00 PM
jphillips jphillips is offline
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Default Braid

X2 with Seahunter's method
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2014, 04:38 PM
Tawn Tawn is offline
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I have 80lbs Power Pro on the all rods on both my boat and the big boat.

If I had to do it all over again. I would put Hi-Vis 40lbs mono on all the board rods and 80lbs braid on the boat (deep) rods.

The reason I would like to change it is:

1. When it's rough out, the braid pops out of the clips too easy when the board hits a big wave and the tow line snaps tight, even when the clips are set on the "tight" setting. The larger diameter of the mono helps prevent pop-offs.

2. Board rods are going to get tangled at some point. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Mono can be untangled for the most part - with braid, just get the scissors and start cutting.

3. The stretch of mono is much more forgiving for inexperienced anglers.

4. Hi-Vis so I can see the lines. These fish hit baits towed behind a big metal frame, you're not going to convince me yellow or green fishing line is going to scare them off.

4. I'd keep the braid on the deep, boat rods due to it's small diameter. Easier to get the baits deeper with less line out. I really like the new color-code Power Pro. It has changes color every 20ft and has a black mark every 5 feet. If I want a bait out 50 feet, I know or I can tell someone to let it "ten black marks" and I know it's out 50. It eliminates the "5 bar" guess work.

Last edited by Tawn; 01-21-2014 at 04:48 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2014, 09:03 PM
5th Tuition 5th Tuition is offline
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Tawn; you tell your guys to let it out 10 black marks and you trust it to be out correctly

I have a buddy, he fishes with me often, his initials are Lou, oh crap, thats his name; well I cut my braid on my deepest rods. I have them tied at 50 ft. I leave enough "tag" on the line so it's easy to see where I tied it.

Lou picks up one of the rods and says,"How far back"? I tell him, "Let it out to the knot". I'm busy doing something else and don't give Lou another thought. After a while, he says, "How far out is this supposed to be"? I tell him 50 ft. He says, "Uhmm, I think I goofed".
I look back and see the knot where the braid is tied to the BACKING!!

I tell him, "Start Cranking, nobody but you brings that line back in to the boat". It had to be out 350ft with an umbrella
It was the last time he ever did that
5th (Marty)
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2014, 08:11 PM
Tawn Tawn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5th Tuition View Post
Tawn; you tell your guys to let it out 10 black marks and you trust it to be out correctly
It largely depends on how much of my variable ballast they have consumed.

On my WWB I have a wind-on swivel at the 275' point. I just tell whoever to "put it out until you see the swivel".....more than once have I looked back to see the mono backing going out. When I ask what exactly do they think they are doing, they look back and say "I didn't see a swivel". Seriously; how could you have possibly missed it?

Last edited by Tawn; 01-22-2014 at 08:14 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-01-2014, 02:22 AM
bhl bhl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tawn View Post
It largely depends on how much of my variable ballast they have consumed.

On my WWB I have a wind-on swivel at the 275' point. I just tell whoever to "put it out until you see the swivel".....more than once have I looked back to see the mono backing going out. When I ask what exactly do they think they are doing, they look back and say "I didn't see a swivel". Seriously; how could you have possibly missed it?
I use braid on my deep boat rods and I tie dental around the line at whatever length I want it let out to. I use the thick floss and double it over and tie many half hitches and leave the tag ends about 3/4 inch long. I makes an ugly knot that is hard to miss. I haven't had it slip yet.

bhl (Bruce)
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